Re: carb seal question/ and now lower units

Posted by MotorHead (64.216.218.137) on October 25, 2003 at 20:25:45:

In Reply to: Re: carb seal question posted by moon on October 25, 2003 at 12:55:29:

You still have not given a model number
so i don't know which engine we are
talking about, but a hundred bucks for
a lower unit seal kit is probably a
rip-off.

Most likely an "after-market" Sierra brand
kit is available for about 20 bucks or so.

I know of "outboard guys" who are "cleaning up"
on ebay by selling stuff to novices who are
not aware of where else to get this stuff, or
what it costs.

These Sierra kits are easy to get and if
someone is selling one on ebay, chances are you
can get the same thing locally for less.

I buy copper-core spark plug wire in 100-foot
rolls; most likely you can find a local outboard
shop or small engine shop that has a roll and
will sell it by the foot. Call around

Keep in mind that if your prop shaft or your
drive shaft are "grooved" where the seal runs,
new seals will probably leak.

The factory servie manual will tell you that
new shafts (or building-up with weld and
turning down on a lathe) is warranted.

On a '50s outboard that is not worth a whole
lot? I don't think so.

I am of the opinion that, when it comes to 50-year-
old outboards, one must accept the fact that the
lower unit is not going to be as "tight" as a late-
model would be.

I accept a bit of lower unit leakage, and frequently
change the oil (after every 2 or 3 runs, even) and
use the cheapest lower unit oil I can find.

If your lower unit positively gushes water, it might
be worth attempting a re-seal, but for minor leakage,
I think it is debatable.

If your lower unit has ball/roller bearings instead
of bushings, the presence of water will be of more
of a danger.

And, of course, one must be midfull of freezing
temps.